A birder’s guide to surviving Disneyworld (2024)

The rain battering against the window, the quieter streets now the schools are back and the Hawaiian shorts put away for another year are a sure sign that Scotland’s ‘summer’ is over for another year, though some might justifiably say that in 2024, it never really got started.

Another sign that autumn has arrived is the commencement of the annual bombardment of TV and social media advertisem*nts from holiday companies selling sunshine and warmth in 2025! All very tempting to many of us, with the added attraction to birders of maybe seeing some colourful, seldom-seen warblers or other species in their home range rather than a lost and bedraggled storm-blown migrant on a coastal headland or island. But, you usually change channel or keep scrolling...

Then suddenly, at the edge of your subconscious, it catches you unawares, unannounced, no warning, booming from the television. That advert promising dreams, sparkles, fantasy, spectacle and... Mickey Mouse.

Your peaceful daydreaming is gate-crashed by - “Wow! Look at that! It looks amazing! Can we go to Disneyworld? Please, please, please can we go? We want to meet Mickey. Please, please!!”

Aaaargh! Hell-on-earth! Crowds, noise, burgers, heat, fireworks, rollercoasters, people, traffic, crowds, heat, noise, busy, busy, busy, queues, noise, people, no birds! Yes, I think that is a fair reflection of my gut reaction to a suggested trip a few years back.

But, to cut a long story short, I caved in. I went. I saw birds. It was fantastic. In fact, I confess, I’ve now been three times!

So, how on earth does a peely-wally Scottish birder who craves peace and quiet, and dissolves into a sweaty mess above about 20C, survive a trip to Disneyworld?

The secret is in the planning. Florida is fantastic for birds, and if you’ve never ventured across the Atlantic, you are guaranteed a bucket load of exciting new species. Even if you have been to North America before, the sheer number and range of species that you might see in the ‘Sunshine State’ make it really worth a visit. And what’s more, in my experience as an aspiring bird photographer, many American species seem just that little bit more approachable/less shy than skulky Scottish songbirds or waders.

Sandhill Cranes, out for a family stroll – Lake Tohopekaliga, Kissimmee, Florida© Ian Thomson

So, to the basics: you’ll need to cope with 8-10 hour flights each way, with the return leg overnight. The latter is surely nobody’s idea of fun! I recommend hiring a car, because public transport to relatively ‘remote’ birding sites throughout the USA is rare to non-existent. It’s worth booking your vehicle well-ahead of your trip for the best deals. I also recommend using your mobile phone as a sat-nav, but make sure you have a package that doesn’t charge you a fortune for international data use, or one that uses offline mapping. I have used Sygic and found it to be very good.

Accommodation is down to individual preference – you may or may not want to be close to the Disney Parks, but there’s a huge variety available. Package deals are available that include flights, Disney Park tickets and accommodation – these might be worth considering if you want to mix rollercoasters and meeting Winnie the Pooh with the birding. Disappointingly, I’m yet to catch up with Tigger. And Prothonotary Warbler.

White Ibis (and terrapin), Orlando, Florida© Ian Thomson

That’s the how. For the ‘when’, I’ve been in April, July and October. Given a choice, the spring would win every time for me. The weather is warm and very pleasant, and the birds are in their most immaculate plumage, singing and displaying, and summer visitors like the stunning Swallow-tailed Kites, have arrived.

In July, it’s very, very warm and humid, and there are torrential thunderstorms most afternoons. In the autumn, the weather is a bit unpredictable, and there can be hurricanes, with damage often extending well inland, and at a minimum causing travel challenges and closures to nature reserves. But autumn birding, as in Scotland, can be quite exciting!

Piping Plover, Fort de Soto Park, Florida © Ian Thomson

The ‘where’ is the interesting bit. The Disney Parks and nearby Universal Studios theme parks are far from devoid of birds – there are areas of parkland, trees and many lakes, all of which attract wildlife. I remember being surprised to see an Osprey fishing on the artificial lake that also held a “Jaws” movie ride, complete with giant plastic (but quite realistic) shark, flames and explosions. The ride has gone, but the Ospreys and many other species, like White Ibis, Snowy Egret and Mottled Duck are still there, while Northern Cardinals fight over dropped food crumbs. All the while, Turkey Vultures and American Black Vultures soar overhead.

Green Heron (punk rock sub-species, Orlando Wetlands Park, Florida© Ian Thomson

However, the best bet, as with birding anywhere, is to get away from the crowds. Local parks and lakes in and around Orlando can be very good, with Blue Jays, Brown Thrashers and potentially a host of warblers and a hummingbird or two, while most wetlands attract a wide selection of herons, egrets, and often duck and wader species. Be cautious about approaching the water though - Alligators are common and widespread, and although they appear quite docile most of the time, they can move quite quickly. If you give them a wide berth though, there shouldn’t be any issues.

Time for a U-turn! Orlando Wetlands Park, Florida© Ian Thomson

The best birding places, not surprisingly, tend to be found among the network of state parks or other protected sites. This is where the fantastic free resource that is eBird comes into play. Most of my trip planning is done here. You type in the month you want to visit, then zoom into the Orlando area of the map, when the individual hotspots appear, the bright orange ones are where to go to see the most birds! It can also give you directions, via Google Maps, to each site. Simple, but brilliant.

An eBird screengrab, showing the best birding spots around Orlando© Ian Thomson

Just as a clue, the best places I’ve found close to Orlando, are the Lake Apopka Wildlife Drive; Circle B Bar Preserve near Lakeland, SW of Orlando; the lakefront on Lake Tohopekaliga in Kissimmee; Mead Botanical Gardens in the city itself; and my personal favourite, Orlando Wetlands Park, near the town of Christmas, east of Orlando. All of these locations have a combination of woodland, grassland and wetlands, attracting a huge variety of birds and other wildlife. These sites, and many others are included in the Great Florida Birding Trail – also essential reading before you go.

If you’re prepared to travel a little further afield, Orlando sits about 90 minutes’ drive (traffic permitting, and it can get pretty busy), from the Atlantic coast and two hours from the Caribbean coast of Florida. There are some excellent birding spots here as well. For example, on the east coast, close to the Cape Canaveral space launch pads, is the fabulous Black Point Wildlife Drive on Merritt Island. More woodland, forest and marshland, but with the added bonus of coastal specialists like Brown Pelicans, and maybe a passing Magnificent Frigatebird!

To the west, visits to two offshore islands, both attached to the mainland by road bridge or causeway are very worthwhile. Honeymoon Island has magnificent white sandy beaches, backed by forest. Terns and waders gather on the shore, while Bald Eagles are among the many species that breed in the woodland. Fort de Soto Park is one of Florida’s best birding sites, attracting rare migrants as well as numerous passage passerines and waders. Black Skimmers rest on the beach, Indigo Buntings feed on the grass while Northern Parula’s flit through the trees and Royal Terns fish offshore. Fabulous!

A family trip to Disneyworld is not a cheap undertaking. But it’s great for the kids and the young at heart. And for the birder, particularly if you manage an early start, a day experiencing one of the local sites suggested here or even a day’s escape from Mickey and friends, can be truly wonderful. And if you can set aside your inner birder for a few hours, going into one or other of the theme parks will be quite an experience! And you’re almost guaranteed a new wildfowl species, at least... Enjoy!

Ian Thomson